Remarkably, the 2005 Shiraz Reserve is even better than the Autograph. It spent 14 months in new oak, 60% French and 40% American. It, too, coats the glass with a thick purple film. Purple/black, it gives up a splendid perfume of cedar, Asian spices, pepper, violets, bacon, blueberry, and blackberry. On the palate the wine is dense and plush, admirably combining elegance and power. There are gobs of sweet blue and black fruits, ripe tannins, and a pure, 60-second finish. Give it 3-4 years to blossom and drink it through 2025.

Inky, glass-staining ruby. An exotic bouquet of red and darker berries, gingerbread, cinnamon and floral scents; a suave vanilla quality gains power with air and carries onto the palate. Lightly chewy black raspberry and bitter cherry skin flavors combine depth with energy, with the spicy qualities repeating on the palate. A late note of dark chocolate adds richness to the long, smooth finish. I found the tannins of this wine to be invisible.