Strutting its stuff at present, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Sandown Vineyard (made from 75-year-old vines) is Bratasiuk's St.-Emilion from McLaren Vale. A wonderfully rich, packed and stacked, dense purple-colored wine, it offers up scents of fruitcake, creme de cassis, underbrush, cedar, and spice box. Full, rich, and powerful, displaying even more potential and intensity than it did last year, this beauty can be approached now, but it won't hit its stride for another 3-4 years. It should last for two decades.

This wine's flavors have a cooler-climate profile to them-think red and black cherry, rather than cassis or plum fruit. Blueberry and bread flour steps in midpalate, and march on through the long finish. Lifted, tight and very pretty.

Tangy, with red pepper and mineral notes, this has extra dimensions to go with the ripe black fruit character, finishing with a bit of grip. Needs cellaring. Best from 2007 through 2012.