David Powell takes pride in his Chateauneuf du Pape-styled The Steading, and the 2004 (a 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, and 20% Shiraz blend aged 22 months in old wood) is a superb example of this cuvee. Its deep plum/ruby color is accompanied by a big, rich bouquet of resiny pine forest scents interwoven with kirsch liqueur, blackberries, pepper, and spice. Full-bodied, pure, heady, complex, and nuanced, it should drink well for 7-10 years.

This is a wonderfully lush blend. Dark earth and cola notes come from the Mourvèdre, spice from the Syrah and cherry and almond components from the Grenache. Long on the finish, where the earth and spice notes really come through. Drink now-2010.

Gamy notes become more prominent against the cherry and spice character at the core, playing against refined tannins to make a distinctive, velvety red. Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro. Drink now through 2011.