After the perfect 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard (that’s right, I raised my score by a point), the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon comes across as slightly more mortal. One of the outstanding Cabernet Sauvignons of the vintage, it tastes like a California concoction of La Mission Haut Brion and Montrose. Its deep purple color is followed by a sumptuously pure nose of sweet scorched earth, hot rocks, creme de cassis, graphite, and charcoal. The tannin is sweet, but elevated. Full-bodied and powerful, with 20-25 years of life, this spectacularly rich, dense, multi-layered effort oozes classic Cabernet Sauvignon varietal character.

Supple and elegantly styled, with rich flavors built around a core of creamy oak, ripe currant, black cherry and herbal sage flavors that are intense and complex without being heavy. Finishes with a tight focus and rich tannins. Best from 2008 through 2012.