Veuve Clicquot Brut Vintage Gold Label 2004
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|Region||France, Champagne, Reims|
One of the best vintages since the great 2002, this is a sophisticated, fruit- and yeast-driven wine. It has a delicate touch, with its white fruit flavors well integrated into the toasty and tangy texture. It will age for many more years.
A fine frame of firm acidity structures this lightly toasty version, offering a lively, creamy bead to carry the flavors of apple tarte Tatin, black currant and smoky mineral, which shos hints of grated coconut, orange peel and ground clove. Drink now through 2028.
The dominantly tart apple character of Clicquot's 2004 Brut makes for a piquant and invigorating if somewhat raw overall impression, incorporating as well overt yeastiness and hints of almond, apple pip, and lemon rind. Insofar as there are impressions here that I would deem "mineral," these are a faintly sweaty and slightly metallic note in the finish, which manage to fit the wine's brash personality. I don't fancy this gaining from bottle age, though I readily confess my lack of experience with older representatives.