The Chardonnay Private Reserve became famous under the helmsmanship of chief winemaker Ed Sbragia, and Laurie Hook has refined it ever so slightly by somewhat backing off the oak, and maintaining the depth and richness, but with more precision and refinement. The full-bodied 2012 Chardonnay Private Reserve exhibits wonderful orange blossom, white peach and pineapple fruit, a subtle touch of vanillin and toast, and a nicely layered, pure style with terrific fruit intensity. It is a great value, especially if you compare its quality to just about any premier cru or grand cru white Burgundy selling for 2-10 times as much. Drink now

Shows off seductive notes of smoky, toasty oak and cream, with fresh, rich, vibrant fruit to match. The flavors of poached pear, fig, honeydew melon, spice and black licorice all fold together on a long, pure, persistent finish. Drink now through 2020. 24,000 cases made.

This is classic Beringer Private Reserve Chard, ripe, oaky, lush, balanced and utterly delicious. There's a lot of everything, from massive tropical and citrus fruits to creamy lees. The malolactic fermentation helps make it buttery and 80% new French oak brings buttered toast and vanilla-bean richness. Balance comes by way of acidity and minerality.