An exceptional wine. Beautiful, deep-red ruby colour, with the bright sheen of great Burgundies. Intense and fresh nose for the young wines. Primary notes of red fruit dominate, such as Morello cherry ("griotte", or wild cherry), raspberry, blackberry. There are hints of complexity with smoky flavours evolving towards liquorice. When the wine is maturing, aromas of pepper, tobacco, humus and undergrowth appear. When drinking the wine, the first impression is always clear-cut and the texture fleshy. The body is firm without being rough, well meshed without being heavy. There is great freshness in the younger wines. With age, the wine gets rounder. It takes on "gras" (velvety texture) and a more precise architecture, supported by silky tannins. It is lively and refined at the same time. There remains a final and most pleasing sensation of harmony, fullness and delicate tannins, as the wine lingers on the palate.
The 2011 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches, which was of Drouhin's first vineyard to be converted to biodynamics, has a light but fresh, defined bouquet with notes of cranberry, raspberry and strawberry fruit. The palate is quite tart on the entry: lifted, slightly candied red fruit with an approachable soft landing on the finish, a hint of white pepper popping up on the aftertaste. Drink this over the next decade. Drink now-2022.