The nosing passes find an oaky/nut paste aroma with fruity notes of berries, dried fruit, plums, pears and soft cheese. The palate entry is composed, succulent and honeyed; by midpalate the flavors deepen to include caramel, rancio and orange rind. Finishes beautifully with depth, finesse and maturity.

We finished with the new release of Tesseron's Cognac. The Tesseron family (currently the proprietors of St.-Estèphe's Lafon-Rochet and Pauillac's Pontet-Canet) made its fortune in the Cognac business, and it is one of the few families to possess ancient stocks of great vintages that have not been diluted with water or manipulated in any manner. They released small quantities of Lot 29 (1929), which remains the most ethereal Cognac I have ever tasted. I'm no expert, but their newest release, the 1953, seems close in quality to the 1929. Slightly darker than the 1929, the 1953 is pure silk, which at this alcohol level is very dangerous indeed. The complex aromatics can fill a room.

The NV Cognac Lot 53 comes from Ugni Blanc and Colombard that spent more than two generations in Limousin oak casks. Its medium-gold color is followed by a beautifully complex Cognac that has lots of lavender, orange blossom, smoke, and hints of licorice. It's impeccably balanced, has a layered, concentrated mouthfeel, and a great finish. It's a sensational Cognac.

100% Grande Champagne. Dark amber, presenting an expansive, unique nose of toffee, dried rose and cut flower stems and, after a few whiffs, some plum and even a hint of tomato. On the palate it's fresh and spicy, with solid structure, but rather woody, most of the flavors derived from oak. Attractive and drinkable, but a slight letdown for the price. (40% abv)