Much more structured, muscular, tannic and intense is the 2013 Quella, which exhibits blackberry notes, licorice, some truffle, graphite and damp earth, huge fruit, a muscular, full-bodied mouthfeel, and a long, moderately tannic finish. Forget it for a few years and drink it over the following 25-30+ years.

Tough from the get-go, with taut, chalky, extracted tannins and a tightfisted core of dark berry and oak flavors. Best from 2020 through 2030. 495 cases made.