Intensely smoky, dusty mineral aromas on this Riesling dissipate with aeration to reveal a delightful bouquet of white blossoms and stonefruit. The palate is bright with citrus acidity and sweet yellow cherries. While lively and fresh now, it should develop remarkable complexity over the next 5-7 years.

Carries an aroma of hot stone, with dark currant and nectarine flavors supported by a lively acidity. This is rich and juicy on the finish, offering notes of white chocolate and spice. Drink now through 2026. 300 cases made.

The Thanisch 2011 Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett features almost mushy overripe apple, papaya and musk melon garlanded with correspondingly decadent lily perfume. Without the citric brightness that characterized the several ostensibly lesser wines in this collection, this Doctor makes a strong case on the basis of a flatteringly glossy texture and extreme, exotic ripeness allied to delicacy and backed by modest (though very apparent) residual sugar. What's more, its finish delivers far greater sense of refreshment and fruit-floral-stone interactivity than the mid-palate had led me to suspect. One should be able to enjoy it through at least 2020, and like many a Thanisch wine from this site, it may well gain in complexity and shapeliness in bottle. Sofia Thanisch picked during the first three weeks of October in 2011. Most of the Auslese was selected early and there was not, she relates, much difference in picking date separating Kabinett and Spatlese. "We were as shocked by the low acidity as we had been by how high the acids were in 2010," notes Thanisch, but, in fact, neither proved to be a significant handicap.